Right Away! Driver Experience on the Talyllyn

For enthusiasts there is something elemental about steam that draws the imagination. At its height the position of Driver was held with great esteem, considered one of the most skilled of professions, and a job dreamt of by children. The days of steam may be gone but the enthusiasm remains, as do opportunities to take the regulator for yourself. Having last year completed a PhD in railway history, a Drivers’ Experience Day was the obvious congratulatory treat. Most appeared to follow the same pattern: a number of students each taking turns for an hour in control. The Talyllyn Railway’s Course, however, was substantially different, offering much more, and with the line’s historic pedigree appealing in its own right there was little doubt where I would be going. For members considering taking this Course, here is my experience.

There are various options, ranging from half days to full days, but the first noteworthy point is that (unless you expressly organise a shared day), you will be the sole person on the course. With many dates available, this means a substantial period of one-on-one tuition to really get a good understanding of how your engine handles. Furthermore, within the limits of maintenance and regular operations you can even choose your locomotive. On contacting the Railway and booking my place (simplicity itself thanks to very helpful staff) a detailed pack arrived on the doorstep explaining what I would need to do and bring – appropriate clothing, a medical form (for insurance purposes), directions and so on. Eager to begin, I soon found myself in beautiful Wales.

Donning bib and brace (though not obligatory!), at 8:00am that morning I presented myself at Pendre Works for duty, meeting my Instructor and Fireman. The course is very much tailored to suit, so if one wishes you can arrive at Wharf at 10:00am with your train ready waiting for you, but conversely you are welcome to help in preparations. After a safety brief, I was introduced to my engine – No. 2 Dolgoch. As she was lit up I assisted with cleaning and polishing, building familiarity with the engine’s layout and learning about this all-important maintenance process. As was pointed out, the connecting rods I was working on were original 1866 – a direct link with the past. As this was my first visit to the line, also having grown up with a certain Reverend’s books, I was kindly given a full tour of the Works and engines as Dolgoch was coaled and watered. Once pressure was built we ran light to collect our train, the controls and main operation being explained to me. Meeting my Guard, it was a considerable surprise and delight to find I had been rostered with one of the vintage Victorian sets including Corris, Glyn Valley and original Talyllyn stock – including the iconic travelling booking office. Combined with Dolgoch herself, this was not only an illustrious train but also coincidentally within the period I had researched for my Doctorate. Once brake checks were complete, still acting as footplate ‘passenger’ at this point, we came into Wharf Station and ran around. Unlike many courses elsewhere, another bonus is that you can have a limited number of private passengers enjoying the ride; in this instance, my Parents. With a ‘Drivers Experience’ headboard securely put in place and plenty of time for photographs, the moment had arrived as I took the regulator.

While I had driven locomotives before (first cutting my teeth on the NRM’s replica Rocket), this was my first time with a plunger regulator, but after a minor first bump had no difficulties thereafter. It was flattering to be credited with my aptitude at the controls, but in fairness I was fortunate to have a very skilled and informative crew who were all expert at teaching as well as the mechanical side. In fact our Guard was also a former geography teacher who was able to give my parents information about the valley – truly above and beyond the call of duty!

Working up the line, one of the main benefits of a course like this became apparent. This is not just driving a locomotive. You are in charge of a train with passengers, so need to ensure smoothness of ride. Working between regular services, you have to work to timetable. Running between blocks, you have to obey signals and exchange tokens. It is the full experience of railway operation, showing in practice how everything comes together. It may sound daunting, but everything is clearly explained and there is excellent supervision. Passing through the valley the view is spectacular and a joy to drive through. As an aside, bluebells lined the trackbed in places – a sight the crew see best! Arriving on time at Dolgoch Falls, we took on water. As with everything in the course, this is hands-on; operating the shut-off valve as part of the team. We had some spare moments here and in the perfect weather Dolgoch enjoyed posing for the camera. After all the time taken polishing her, ironically she had primed slightly and splattered gunk on herself – oh dear! Given a quick re-polish, all was well and we were off again. While most trains stop at stations we were in the position to have a through run, something apparently quite unusual for Abergynolwyn. As all familiar with the line will know, the scenery changes dramatically as the line climbs the valley, but equally the differing terrain builds on your driving skills as you work up the gradient. It is now a running joke in the family that my hill starts are better with steam than in my own car… Reaching the terminus at Nant Gwernol I handed over to the Instructor for running around the loop, a necessary action for safety when coupling.

Travelling down the line was a whole new situation. While ascending there is the obvious need for steam, plus the controls naturally being in front, descending required operating the brakes without physically looking at them (now being behind). Using the train’s momentum rather than active propulsion – although I’m told this varies pending on the engine – speed restrictions and maintaining smooth control become the priority. Gently gliding into Abergynolwyn, we stopped to allow regular services to overtake and to have lunch, which was both superb and plentiful. With just under an hour’s break, there was plenty of time for a good look around and to watch the trains. Restarting and passing through Dolgoch Falls non-stop, we arrived at Pendre pulling into the main loop. In order to limit disruption of the timetable, on this leg we did not go back down to Wharf Station, instead leaving the carriages and returning to the shed for coal and water. As with at Nant Gwernol, the crew took over these shunting operations and I could enjoy sights from the footplate on these light movements.

As this was a full-day course another round trip was completed as before, including another water-stop and tea break. By this time I was settled in to the nuances of Dolgoch’s controls, still under a watchful eye, and was kindly explained some more advanced aspects of driving. As is plain there was a lot to do and see but I should note one pleasant side point. Particularly recalling childhood tales of ‘Skarloey’ and ‘Rheneas’, seeing children run up to the trackside fences to see us pass and waving when blowing the whistle was in itself a lovely experience. Despite point problems up the line causing a six-minute delay, returning down the line we arrived at Wharf Station one minute early – not bad for a beginner.

Officially that was the end but as said the course is tailored to suit, so while no longer driving I remained on the footplate as we returned the stock to the yard. Thereafter I acted as a volunteer lookout as we returned to the shed and, some ten hours after first arriving, the day drew to a close.

So what can be said of the Talyllyn Railway’s Drivers’ Course? Firstly, the scope and quality of tuition undertaken offered an in-depth and very enjoyable insight into railway operation, not only offering the thrill of driving a historic train but doing so in the context of signalling and timetables. Secondly, the amount of time given plus the one-on-one tuition offers great value for money (not to mention the inclusive lunch and Society membership) alongside giving the chance to properly learn as opposed to simply ‘having a go’. Thirdly is the line itself. Its locomotives and history are world-famous, but more importantly I consider it easily the friendliest line I have visited – experienced volunteers, all of whom were exceptionally kind and eager. Through my introductory volunteering I am honoured to now have the TR feathers on my greasetop and look forward on future visits to requesting permission to help with more polishing duties or other volunteering.

Balancing great quantity with high quality, also helping fund a very good cause, I cannot overstate the excellence and the sheer enjoyment of this experience. As for ‘once in a lifetime’ though, I’m not so sure, or rather hope not. Maybe next time I’ll try driving Edward Thomas…

Rudi Newman