The Talyllyn Trails
One of the many pleasures a ride on the Talyllyn brings is the beautiful scenery the line travels through. Whenever you have scenery such as this, a wealth of footpaths are never far away – in fact there are at least a couple of stretches along the route of the line where a footpath is literally feet away from Talyllyn tracks!
For the majority of visitors, a trip up the line, with perhaps a break at Dolgoch to view the falls, some refreshment in the Abergnowlyn tea rooms and a visit to the narrow gauge railway museum on their return to Tywyn is their experience of the Talyllyn. But for those who may be staying in the area for a few days, those who wish to discover more of the area and want to do something a little different or for those who want more than just a train ride, the eight selected walks available in an attractive leaflet format from Tywyn Wharf Station, could be just the ticket!
Because the route descriptions and maps are so clear, an Ordinance Survey map is not really necessary for any of these walks, although one might be helpful as a confirmation of the route being followed and in locating features that might not appear on the leaflet mapping.
Being a keen narrow gauge enthusiast as well as walker, I decided to spend five days based in Tywyn, during which time I would tackle all eight walks, together with a hike up in the forests around Nant Gwernol.
Arriving in Tywyn on the Monday afternoon, and having located my lodgings for the week, I set about tackling Walk 1 – The Pendre Station Walk. This is a superb introduction to walking in the area. It is easy, straightforward and very much on the level, offering superb views of the coast and also a flavour of what is to come, with views up both the Fathew and Dysynni valleys – you get to know both extremely well on these walks! A visit to St Cadfan`s Church either before or after this walk is well worthwhile.
Tuesday dawned, sunny and warm, and it was train to Rhydyronen to tackle Walk 2 – Rhdyronen & Dysynni. Not only is the station at Rhdyronen my favourite place on the Talyllyn, it is also the start and finish point of several Talyllyn trails. Like yesterday`s walk, this is very much on the flat, walking along quiet country lanes, through fields and woodland (where you can learn a little about the Corbet family and Ynysymaengwyn) and along the banks of the Afon Dysynni, where stunning views can be enjoyed of Bird`s Rock. There is a short section that involves walking alongside the main A493, but a welcome pavement does now provide some refuge from the noise of the traffic!
Back at Rhdyronen and time for Walk 3 – Rhydyronen & Brynglas. This is one of the finest of the eight walks and is highly recommended. Although the circuit is less than four miles it seemed quite long, with a steep up and very steep descent in the first half; however, if your legs are beginning to send you messages at this point, you can always cut the walk short at Brynglas and catch a train – one of the beauties of these walks! The first section from Rhdyronen to Brynglas is wonderfully scenic. Once you have climbed up the bank you remain on a contour with views back to the coast at Tywyn as well as further up the Fathew Valley. On a clear day views can be had of Cader Idris making a striking photograph, with the farming hamlet of Brynglas in the foreground. Do try to complete the second half of this walk as there are wonderful views too on the opposite side of the valley, near Geufron Farm, on the descent to Bryncrug.
Back at Rhdyronen, I decided to return to Tywyn by means of Walk 5 – Rhdyronen Circuit and Pendre. The circuit is a short hike up a beautiful, little-known valley, following the Nant Braich-y-Rhiw, followed by a straightforward leg-stretcher back to town. This follows the Railway for much of its route and if you arrange to be in the right places at the right time, you can get some excellent photos of Talyllyn trains as they make their way up and down the Fathew Valley.
Wednesday dawned cloudy and damp. Those wonderful views of the last two days now shrouded in grey and cloud. After spending a rewarding hour in the narrow gauge railway museum at Wharf, I decided to head up the valley to Nant Gwernol. There is something rather special about the Talyllyn`s farthest outpost. Not only does it serve as a poignant reminder of the tremendous achievement by the TR back in 1976 when this remote valley was finally opened up to passenger traffic – previously the domain of mineral wagons – but also the fact that this is a station that can only be accessed by train or on foot. Add to this its sheer setting on a platform high up in the forest, complete with swirling rapids in the river below, this is a place that simply invites you to break your journey and explore! What a pity, therefore, that the vast majority of passengers alight from the train, have a quick look around and, sensing that there is nothing there, get back on it, and return to Abergnowlyn and Tywyn!
There are a plethora of walks that can be accomplished from here, depending on time, ability and energy. On a very simple level, you can walk down to Abergynolwyn village from here, or you can walk to its station, via the `Stations Trail`. If you want a short walk to explore the waterfalls farther up the valley, then the `Cascades Trail` is for you; and the really energetic will want to tackle the Quarryman`s Trail, which, as its name suggests, takes the walker right up into what was the Bryn Eglwys slate quarry.
Paths are well-maintained, well-signed and easy to follow, accompanied by a number of information points, detailing the fascinating history of quarrying in the area.
Thursday saw a distinct recovery in the weather, returning to warm and sunny climes which was just perfect for a visit to Dolgoch. First, I undertook Walk 4 – Dolgoch Falls & Bird Rock. Having seen the latter from a distance this walk takes you right past this impressive feature which dominates the Dysynni Valley. Unlike other walks in the series, this one does involve a fair bit of road walking, but these are quiet country lanes where traffic is scarce and the road sections contain some of the finest scenery to be enjoyed on this walk. An exploration of the Dolgoch Falls is an absolute must – do try to visit all three falls. If you don`t like hoards of people sharing your path the crowds do thin out the further up the valley you go. Be aware that, because of path erosion, not all paths may be accessible all of the time.
Then it was Walk 6 – The Abertrinant Loop. This is an interesting route taking in the farming settlements of Tan-y-coed-isaf and Tan-y-coed-uchaf on the opposite side of the Fathew valley from the Railway, briefly entering forest before a dog-leg turn out of it and a path that gradually ascends the valley. Route finding between the `ladder stile hidden in a field corner` and the top of a partially tree-covered grassy hill can be tricky, although once Abertrinant Farm is located, the way does become easier.
Benefiting from recent new ownership, the said farm is now much smarter and a major feature of both this and the previous walk.
Friday was possibly the best day of all – tackling the final two walks in the series. Walk 7 – The Dysynni Gorge Walk – you quickly get away from the busy B4405 and enter a beautiful footpath which skirts the incredibly scenic Dysynni gorge. After a brief section along a lane, you climb up a wonderful grassy track with views of the distant mountains, before a forest track returns you to the Fathew Valley.
If you have time for just one walk, make it Walk 8 – The Castell y Bere Walk. This is a stunner! Starting off along a country lane leading out of Abergynowlyn Village – and following the Dysynni in very much the same way as Walk 7, a steep uphill path takes you up the opposite side of the valley and veers sharply to the right. After crossing a field and a modicum of lane-walking, you land up at Castell y Bere. Do make time for a visit here: there are enough remains and helpful information panels to give the visitor a fair idea as to what the Castle looked like in its heyday and to marvel at its wonderfully elevated position overlooking this remote valley. Further on, you pass St Michael`s Church, Llanfihangel y Pennant. As well as the Leper`s Window, a peek into the vestry will reveal an unusual and fascinating model of the Dysynni Valley made out of quilt by sixteen individuals, all with an intricate knowledge of the Valley. Two of its most obvious features, Bird Rock and Castell y Bere are clearly visible. You can also learn about Mary Jones who was christened at St Michael`s.
But the best, I think, is yet to come. Climbing steeply out of the hamlet, alongside a river and waterfalls, you emerge onto a grassy plateau. This is, by far, the remotest part of any of these walks, with just you and the sheep that roam the hillsides, for company. The ruins of the farmstead of Nant-yr-eira serve as a poignant reminder of the harsh conditions up here – especially in winter – and the sheer remoteness of this stretch of the walk. All too soon, however, civilisation looms with the noise of traffic, and a very steep descent to a quiet country lane which you follow back to Abergynowlyn.
What a wonderful week spent walking in a beautiful part of Wales, using the Talyllyn trains as a means of transport. Travelling back to Tywyn on the last train of my last day, I felt a slight sadness in leaving such a beautiful area to which I had become quite attached in a relatively short space of time. These walks can be accomplished by most fit and able-bodied people and you do get to see and experience far more of the area than you would simply riding on the train. Provided you have an up to date timetable, a copy of the relevant walks leaflet(s), and come suitably equipped, there is no reason why you can`t have an extremely rewarding time trying out one or more of these trails. You won`t be disappointed!
David Bailey
